See here for more information: http://www.worldexpeditions.co.uk/index.php?section=countries&id=250491

It is not our wish to promote one company over another. But we’re all very happy that a company has stepped forward to offer the GHT to the world as a supported expedition.

If you have experience with World Expeditions and wish to share your feedback, positive or constructive, please do so below.

World Expeditions, based out of Australia, are now offering the full package (in Nepal), as well as it broken into 7 manageable sections. Please see the World Expeditions website for more information.

Apparently, at least 5 people have already signed up and raring to go. This is Great News for the GHT!

Their press release, for the record, follows below….

A WORLD FIRST: WORLD EXPEDITIONS LAUNCHES THE GREAT HIMALAYA TRAIL

LEADING ADVENTURER WORKS CLOSELY TO DEVELOP ITINERARY

The next big thing in trekking has just launched: for the first time ever the Great Himalaya Trail is now available through a specialist tour operator.

The Great Himalaya Trail is the longest and highest alpine walking track in the world. It winds between the largest mountains and remotest communities on the planet, connecting five Asian countries (Bhutan, China, India, Nepal and Pakistan) and covering more than 4,500km, from Namche Barwa in Tibet to Nanga Parbat in Pakistan.

Currently, only the Nepal section (1,700km) is available to traverse, as it is the only part that has been walked and mapped thoroughly (the other countries are still being researched). All of Nepal’s 8,000m peaks can be viewed along the trail, while trekkers also have the opportunity to experience remote cultures in hidden corners of the country – a true exploratory experience.

The Great Himalaya Trail in Nepal has been documented – from its start in the east at Kangchenjunga to its completion in western Tibet – by author and adventurer Robin Boustead, who worked closely with World Expeditions to create the inaugural supported treks on this trail.

Unique to adventure holiday expert World Expeditions, the full traverse costs £20,500 and takes 157 days to complete, although alternatively it can be broken down to seven smaller stages:

* Stage 1: Kangchenjunga Exploratory (30 days)

* Stage 2: Makalu & Everest Travers via Sherpani Col (34 days)

* Stage 3: Everest & Rolwaling Traverse via Tashi Labsta Pass (28 days)

* Stage 4: Langtang via Tilman Pass (18 days)

* Stage 5: Manaslu & Annapurna (26 days)

* Stage 6: Upper Dolpo Traverse (26 days)

* Stage 7: Rara Lake & Yari Valley (23 days)

Commenting on the launch of the Great Himalaya Trail, Brad Atwal, World Expeditions’ UK Manager, said:

“When World Expeditions launched in 1975 offering some of the very first trekking holidays in Nepal no-one would have imagined that one day the Everest Base Camp trek would become such a popular, almost mainstream holiday…. we’re proud that 35 years later we’re still able to continue our pioneering history in the Himalaya by launching an iconic trek such as the Great Himalaya Trail.”

He continued:

“While each section of the Great Himalaya Trail offers something distinctive and different, the entire traverse is united by the cause of exploring the paths less travelled and benefiting the most remote communities. In line with World Expeditions’ ethos, the financial benefits from these treks will be injected directly back into the host communities, many that never see a penny from tourism, through the ethical use of local guides, porters and carriers, as well as travellers’ purchase of food, drinks and authentic hand crafted artefacts.”

For more information and bookings call 0800 0744 135 or visit www.worldexpeditions.co.uk.

Kanchenjunga trekking photography
Makalu trekking photography – coming soonish!
Everest & Rolwaling trekking photography
Panch Pokhari & Langtang trekking photography
Ganesh Himal & Manaslu trekking photography
Annapurna & Mustang trekking photography
Dolpa trekking photography
Mugu trekking photography
Humla trekking photography

If you represent an organisation that has particular interest, or you know of someone who can help develop the GHT please contact ICIMOD through their website.

http://www.facebook.com/event.php?eid=228879730070&ref=mf

A third option is to trek through the Limi Valley after Mount Kailash. If you don’t want to be in a jeep for many long, dusty days, this is a beautiful alternative. After having done the kora of Mount Kailash, you return to Hilsa, from which you trek through the authentic Tibetan villages of the Limi Valley. Few tourists have found the way to Limi. The people in the villages are very friendly and open.  You walk through desolate high altitude landscapes, crossing the Nyalu La at 4940 meters. It is a truly adventurous trek.

A possible day to day itinerary is:

For extensive descriptions of day 01-08 and day 17-25 please go to Humla Limi Valley Trek.

Day 01 Fly to Nepalgunj
Day 02 Fly to Simikot (2950 m)
Day 03 Trek to Dharapuri (2300 m)
Day 04 Trek to Kermi (2670m)
Day 05 Trek to Yalbang (3020m)
Day 06 Trek to Tumkot (3380 m)
Day 07 Trek to Yari (3700m)
Day 08 Trek to Hilsa (3720 m)
Day 09 Trek Hilsa to Sher and drive to Purang (3900m)
Day 10 Drive to Manasarovar Lake (4588m)
Day 11 Trek at Manasorvar lake
Day 12 Drive to Darchen
Day 13 Day 1 Mount Kailash kora, trek to Dira Puk, (4775m)
Day 14 Day 2 Mount Kailash kora ,trek over Drolma La (5630 m) to Zuthul Puk (4700m)
Day 15 Day 3 Mount Kailash Kora, trek to Darchen
Day 16 Drive to Sera, cross border to Hilsa (3720m)
Day 17 Trek to Manepeme (3990 m)
Day 18 Trek to Til (4000 m)
Day 19 Trek to Halji (3660 m)
Day 20 Trek to Jang (3930 m)
Day 21 Trek to Talung (4370 m)
Day 22 Trek to Shinjungma (3620 m) via Nyalu La (4949 m)
Day 23 Trek to Kermi (2670 m)
Day 24 Trek to Simikot (2950 m)
Day 25 Fly to Nepalgunj-Kathmandu

Humla is an important gateway for the holy Mount Kailash and the mythical Lake Manasarovar.

Hindus, Buddhists, Jain and Bon followers see the 6714m high Mount Kailash as the holiest mountain on earth. It is considered to be the abode of the great Hindu God Shiva, as well as the axis of the universe, from which four rivers, the Indus, Brahmaputra, Sutlej and the Karnali have their source and flow into the four directions. Stepping on the shore and taking a bath in Lake Manasarowar, or drinking from the water cleans the sins of a hundred rebirths.

From Hilsa you cross the border to Sera (also spelled Sher). Here jeeps are waiting to drive you northwards past Gurla Mandata mountain to the shores of Lake Manasarovar and Rakshas Lake. You can walk (part of) the  ‘kora’ (Tibetan) or ‘parikrama ’(sanskrit), a holy-walk, circumambulating the lake. In summer, wild geese and Himalayan swans swim on its waters. There are eight gompas around the lake, of which six have been rebuilt.

From the lake you drive to Darchen, situated at the foot of Mount Kailash. From Darchen (also spelled as Tarchen), you can make the ‘kora‘ or ‘parikrama ’, the holy walk circumambulating the mountain in clockwise direction, in 3 or 4 days. You share the trail with many Hindu, Jain, Buddhist and Bon pilgrims. The last ones circle the mountain anti-clockwise. Most Buddhist people are walking with their prayer wheels spinning at all times, mumbling their prayers. You see some prostrating  the whole kora. The kora goes through an impressive desolate landscape, the Mount Kailash towering high above you many times. Mount Kailash resembles a huge natural temple. Stones, springs and hills along the way have a deeper religious meaning to the pilgrims.  All along the way you encounter Buddhist shrines, like chörten, mani walls, holy footprints and of course Buddhist monasteries. The kora (parikrama) goes over a high pass of 5630 meter, the Drolma La (also spelled as Dolma La). For pilgrims this pass is, besides being the highest point, the spiritual highlight of their odyssey. The pass is decorated with masses of prayer flags and out of devotion people leave clothes, coins and other personal belongings here. Devout pilgrims mumble their prayers and ring the brass bells in front of the holy rock in which, according to legend the goddess Drolma disappeared after she had guided the first pilgrim here. To pilgrims it is the symbolic passage through the gates of death after which one is cleansed and prepared for a good rebirth.

After completing the kora, you drive eastwards by jeep through the vastness of the Tibet Plateau and along the mighty Yarlung Zangpo river. During the way you enjoy fantastic mountain views of the Himalayas. You can drive to Zangmu to re-enter Nepal at the Friendship Bridge or travel to Lhasa, via Lhatsa and Gyantse and Sigatse.

A possible day-to-day itinerary is (returning to Kathmandu after Mount Kailash):

For extensive descriptions of day 01-08 please go to Humla Limi Valley Trek.

Day 01 Fly to Nepalgunj
Day 02 Fly to Simikot (2950 m)
Day 03 Trek to Dharapuri (2300 m)
Day 04 Trek to Kermi (2670m)
Day 05 Trek to Yalbang (3020m)
Day 06 Trek to Tumkot (3380 m)
Day 07 Trek to Yari (3700m)
Day 08 Trek to Hilsa (3720 m)
Day 09 Trek to Sher and drive to Purang (3900m)
Day 10 Drive to Manasarovar Lake (4600m)
Day 11 Trek at Manasorvar lake
Day 12 Drive to Darchen (4520 m)
Day 13 Day 1 Mount Kailash kora, trek to Dira Puk, (4775m)
Day 14 Day 2 Mount Kailash kora ,trek over Drolma La (5630 m) to Zuthul Puk (4700m)
Day 15 Day 3 Mount Kailash Kora, trek to Darchen, drive to Manasarovar Lake (4600m)
Day 16 Drive to Paryang (4600m)
Day 17 Drive to Saga (4450m)
Day 18 Drive to Nyalam (3750m)
Day 19 Drive to Zangmu, cross the border with Nepal at Friendship Bridge, drive to Last Resort
Day 20 Drive to Kathmandu (1350 m)

Another possible day to day itinerary is (going to Lhasa after Mount Kailash):

For extensive descriptions of day 01-08 please go to Humla Limi Valley Trek.

Day 01 Fly to Nepalgunj
Day 02 Fly to Simikot (2950 m)
Day 03 Trek to Dharapuri (2300 m)
Day 04 Trek to Kermi (2670m)
Day 05 Trek to Yalbang (3020m)
Day 06 Trek to Tumkot (3380 m)
Day 07 Trek to Yari (3700m)
Day 08 Trek to Hilsa (3720 m)
Day 09 Trek Hilsa to Sher and drive to Taklakot (also spelled Purang) (3770m)
Day 10 Drive to Manasarovar Lake (4588m)
Day 11 Trek at Manasorvar lake
Day 12 Drive to Darchen (4520m)
Day 13 Day 1 Mount Kailash kora, trek to Dira Puk, (4775m)
Day 14 Day 2 Mount Kailash kora ,trek over Drolma La (5630 m) to Zuthul Puk (4700m)
Day 15 Day 3 Mount Kailash Kora, trek to Darchen
Day 16 : Drive to Paryang
Day 17 : Drive to Saga
Day 18 : Drive to Lhatse
Day 19 : Drive to Shigatse
Day 20 : Drive to Gyantse
Day 21 : Drive to Lhasa

This itinerary was written by Linda Bezemer, a tourism expert who trekked this area with a team in October 2009.

A suggested itinerary is:
Day 01 Fly to Nepalgunj
Day 02 Fly to Simikot (2950 m)
Day 03 Trek to Dharapuri (2300 m)
Day 04 Trek to Kermi (2670m)
Day 05 Trek to Yalbang (3020m)
Day 06 Trek to Tumkot (3380 m)
Day 07 Trek to Yari (3700m)
Day 08 Trek to Hilsa (3720 m)
Day 09 Trek to Manepeme (3990 m)
Day 10 Trek to Til (4000 m)
Day 11 Trek to Halji (3660 m)
Day 12 Trek to Jang (3930 m)
Day 13 Trek to Talung (4370 m)
Day 14 Trek to Shinjungma (3620 m) via Nyalu La (4949 m)
Day 15 Trek to Kermi (2670 m)
Day 16 Trek to Simikot (2950 m)
Day 17 Fly to Nepalgunj-Kathmandu

Below you can find a day-by-day description of this route. Walking times are of course a guideline and differ from person to person. The times mentioned, are excluding breaks.

Day 1 – Flight Kathmandu-Nepalgunj.

To get to Humla, you first have to fly to Nepalgunj. Nepalgunj is a hot city in south-western Nepal, on the Terai plains, close to the Indian border. Take a cycle rikshaw for a ride in town. You’ll pass the hustle and bustle of the bazaar and see horse carts full with people going to or coming from the Indian border.

Day 2 – Flight Nepalgunj-Simikot (2950 m)

The flight to Simikot is a spectacular 45-minute flight over steep mountain ridges. Until now Simikot airport is just a gravel airstrip nestling among the mountains, but the airport is due to be paved soon.

It is possible to start walking immediately to Dharapuri, but it is worthwhile staying in Simikot and wandering around the village. Simikot is a small, mostly Hindu village.

You see people weaving at small looms at their backyards. As Simikot is situated at an altitude of almost 3000 meters, it is wise to take it easy today to give your body the chance to acclimatize.

Accommodation: In Simikot there is one hotel, a few guesthouses (including the Nepal Trust Guesthouse) and campsites.

Day 3 – Simikot to Dharapuri (2300 m) 4 hrs

The trek starts with a short climb of about an hour to a little pass just over 3000m. After the pass it’s a long and steep decent to Dharapuri. The trail goes high above the Karnali River, partly through pine forests, passing a few villages. Along the way, you meet local people, both Hindu and Buddhist, sometimes carrying their heavy loads all the way up the steep trail.

Accommodation: In Dharapuri you can camp or stay in one of the 2 local guesthouses.

Day 4 – Dharapuri to Kermi (2670 m) 3 hrs

It is a rather short walk today. The trail keeps on following the Karnali River, sometimes high on the slope, with the river far below you and sometimes almost level with it. The river finds its way through narrow gorges with high rocky slopes. You walk along fields with mainly barley, buckwheat, rice and potatoes.

In the afternoon you can relax your muscles in one of the two natural hot springs close to the village. It’s a 30 minute walk, passing Kermi village. Kermi is a small agricultural village and is the first completely Buddhist village on the trail. From Kermi onwards, all the villages are Buddhist. There are two interesting Buddhist monasteries close to Kermi: Laikyo Gompa, a few hundred years old, is about 45 minutes from the campsite and Lhundrup Choeling Gompa, less than half a century old, is about 30 minutes from the campsite. Both are seldom visited by tourists.

At night you fall asleep with the sounds of jackals and hyenas in the distance.

Accommodation: 45 minutes before Kermi is Dadakermi. There is a small guesthouse here, which can be a nice stop for lunch or a cup of tea as well. Just before Kermi, you will find a campsite with a beautiful view over the mountains.

Day 5 – Kermi to Yalbang (3020 m) 5 hrs

The trail is flat or slightly uphill, passing alongside fields planted with barley and buckwheat. You can see beautiful lizards sunning themselves on rocks. After 2 hours you cross a small pass, after which it is a steep descend of about 20 minutes until you reach a big iron suspension bridge over the Sali River. The walk goes through beautiful pine forests now. Below you, you see the emerald green Karnali river.

Once and a while you meet caravans of mules and dzopa´s (a crossbreed of yak and cow). These are mostly villagers from Simikot and the Nyinba Valley to the east of Simikot. They are going to (or are coming back from) Taklakot, just across the border with Tibet, to buy goods for trading or for personal use.

In and around Yalbang there are so many interesting things to see that it is easy to spend an extra day here. There is a Children Hostel, run by the Himalayan Children Society. The school would be too far to walk to each day, so thanks to the hostel, children from villages in the area have the chance to go to school.

The owner is happy to show you around.

Above the village there is a beautiful monastery: the Namkha Khyung Dzong Monastery. You notice you are getting near the monastery by a huge stone, with a Tibetan mantra carved on it. The Namkha Khyung Dzong is the biggest monastery in the region, with around 130 monks living there. It belongs to the Nyingmapa lineage, the oldest Buddhist lineage, which is founded by Guru Ringpoche, an important magician of the 7th century.

Inside the monastery you can see a big statue of Sakyamuni Buddha and some smaller statues, among which a statue of Guru Rinpoche. The monastery has a school and a clinic, which you can visit as well. A Buddhist monk will be happy to show you around, after which you will be invited for tea upstairs. At 7 am and 4 pm there is a daily puja (a Buddhist prayer ceremony) that you can attend (please remain silent and sit down along one of the side walls, behind the monks).

In Yalbang there is another small clinic, funded and managed by Nepal Trust, which you can visit as well.

At night you fall asleep with the sound of jackals and hyenas again.

Accommodation: Just before Yalbang there is one simple guesthouse with one common sleeping room: Singapore Hotel. In Yalbang there are 3 campsites (one run by the Children’s Hostel, one run by the school and another run by the Namkha Khyung Dzong Monastery).

Day 6 – Yalbang to Muchu (3120 m) 4 hrs or Tumkot (3380 m) 5 hrs

Leaving Yalbang, the path goes high above the Karnali River again. After about 20 minutes you pass the little village Yangar. The path is mostly Nepali Flat: flat parts, and sometimes going up, sometimes going down. At some parts the path is spectacularly carved out of the rocks, and you find yourself walking in a kind of three-sided tunnel.

You’ll notice the environment changing as it is getting more rocky and the big pine trees make way for smaller bushes. You cross the Karnali River by a big wooden suspension bridge. The path climbs high above the Karnali River and goes along the upper site of a deep gorge. You see the emerald green Karnali River far below you. Along the way you may meet big flocks of sheep carrying salt, an old trade still existing today.

Sometimes you see big army tents. These are temporary restaurants and shops, which can be a nice place for a tea, noodle soup or just to refill your stock of snacks, like coconut biscuits.

After 3 to 4 hours, you arrive in the charming village of Muchu.

Accommodation: If you want to stay a night with the locals, it’s possible here! You can stay with a very friendly family in a homestay.

It’s an hour walk to Tumkot. Actually, the main trail doesn’t pass through Tumkot Village, but some small teahouses and a campsite. The actual village is some 20 minutes south of the trail. Close to the campsite and village lies a very interesting monastery of the Sakya lineage, the Dhungkar Choezom Monastery, one of the most important Sakya monasteries in the Tibetan region.

The monastery lies on a hill, it’s a 20-30 minutes climb to get there. It is the only Sakya Monastery in Humla, and one of the few monasteries of this lineage in Nepal. If the caretaker is around, he is very happy to show visitors around. His enthusiastic explanations show how committed he is with the fate of the monastery. Unfortunately the beautiful wall paintings are in desperate need of renovation. For more info about this monastery see:

http://www.buddhistview.com/site/epage/2978_225.htm

Accommodation: there are a few teahouses, which mainly cater to local people, but sometimes tourists sleep here as well. Close to Tumkot there is a campsite.

Day 7 – Tumkot to Yari (3700 m) or Thado Dunga (3750 m) 5 hrs

The trail climbs slowly but steadily, with a few steep climbs in between. Pretty soon after leaving Tumkot, you can see the landscape changing: it’s getting more and more rocky and desolate. The few trees left are low junipers. Part of the trail goes over the dirt road that is being built at the moment. It is still uncertain when and if the road will ever be finished. You cross the small village Pani Palwang, a couple of teahouses along the road, which makes a nice place for a cup of tea or a lunch break. It’s another 1 ½ hour to Yari or Thado Dunga, just after Yari.

Accommodation: In both Yari as Thado Dunga there are teahouses, which mainly cater to local people, but sometimes tourists sleep here as well. Close to these villages it is also possible to camp.

Day 8 – Yari to Hilsa (3720 m), csrossing the Nara La (4620 m) 6 hrs

Today you cross the Nara La pass at 4620 meter. It’s a long and tiring climb, but the views are your reward! As the trail climbs, the landscape gets more desolate. Trees disappear completely and the landscape looks more and more like Tibet. Sometimes you meet big caravans of mules, dzopa or yaks. The bigger yaks are an especially impressive sight. You pass a few teahouses at Tado Dunga; from here the trail becomes steeper. It’s still 2 hours climbing to the pass, if there happens to be snow it will take a bit longer. At about half an hour from the pass you cross a few big tents (tent hotels, serving foods and drinks). You can see the Nara La pass in the distance, but due to the altitude it is still a hard climb to get there. You recognize the pass by the pile of stones (it brings good luck to add one!) and the strings of Tibetan prayer flags, carrying the prayers far away with the strong wind.

You have breathtaking views ahead into Tibet and back towards Yari far below . At the other side of the pass, it looks like you are in Tibet. You are surrounded by barren mountains in brown, copper, ash and dark yellow colors. From the pass it’s a long descent to Hilsa, close to the border with Tibet. You can choose to take the longer dirt road or a steep shortcut down.

Accommodation: In Hilsa there are a couple of simple guesthouses where you can stay. Of course you can also pitch your tents, just behind the village.

Day 9 – Hilsa to Manepeme (3990 m) 5 hrs

You leave Hilsa, crossing a big iron bridge. At the other side of the river, a small, a slightly difficult trail winds its way over a slope, until it connects with a larger trail high on the slope. This trails follows the Karnali River in eastern direction up till Manepeme. The path climbs gradually with a few steep ups and downs. You walk in a dramatic landscape of bare, steep rocks in amazing colors.

Accommodation: There are no settlements between Hilsa and Til. Manepeme is a small flat area close to the trail and close to a water source where it is possible to camp.

Day 10 – Manepeme to Til (4000 m) 6 hrs

The trail climbs on and winds its way through the high, steep rocks. After about 2 hours, you can choose between a small path which stays level for a while or a larger path going steeper up. The small path passes a very interesting meditation cave, Ya Yip Phuk. This was the meditation cave of Lotsawa Rinchen Sangpo (985-1055), a famous translator of Buddhist scriptures. His activities were crucial to the revival of cultural exchange between Tibet and India, paving the way to the so-called second dissemination of Buddhism in Tibet. The trail is surprisingly green at some parts, with some juniper trees and bushes among the bare rock.

The path climbs very steeply for about half an hour to Lamka La, a pass at 4300 meter. After the pass, it’s a pretty easy walk which is mostly going down to Til (more or less 1 ½ hrs). You can notice you are approaching the village when various chörtens (stupas) start to appear. The first thing you see from Til, are some white buildings attached high to a slope. This is the monastery from Til with some retreat houses next to it. It takes a while before you see the village of Til appearing in the distance, as the houses are built with stones that completely merge with the environment. When you get nearer to Til, you will be surprised to see how the environment gets greener. The village is surrounded by birches and terraced fields with barley, which both are bright yellow in September-October. Two beautiful snow capped mountains with impressive glaciers are towering above the village.

The village of Til is a beautiful authentic Tibetan village, as are all villages in the Limi Valley. You enter the village passing a gate chörten. Most villagers still wear the original Tibetan dress: the men a long thick brown coat, with one sleeve down, the women a long brown or blue coat, with their heads covered with a long colorful cape. Most women wear beautiful jewelry, with big turquoise stones. The older people spend a big part of the day praying, spinning their prayer wheels around. Most prayer wheels carry the famous mantra “Om mani padme hum”, which means more or less “blessed is the jewel in the lotus”. This is the mantra of Avalokitesvara, the buddhisatva (a Buddhist half god, who stays on earth to help humanity reach enlightenment) of compassion.

Accommodation: Most groups camp at a campsite 45 minutes downhill from Til, next to the river. It’s a climb of a little over 1 hour to the village, but it is really worthwhile going there.

If you have a small group, you can try to camp close to the village or to stay with a family.

Day 11 – Til to Halji (3660 m) 3 hrs

It’s an easy day to Halji, which allows you time to wander around in the villages and visit the monasteries. The path follows the Limi river upstream and is relatively flat walking.

Along the way, look out for mountain goats and blue sheep! If you are very lucky you might even see a snow leopard from here on. As with Til, it takes a while before you see Halji appearing, as the village is blending completely with the environment. You enter the village passing a gate chörten after which a very big mani wall appears, a low wall with many stones in which holy mantra’s and Buddhist deities are carved. In Halji the monastery, Rinchenling Gompa, is in the village itself. It’s built in the 14th Century and belongs to the Kagyugpa lineage. It’s the main gompa in the Limi Valley and serves as the religious centre of the Valley. It has been beautifully restored (with help of Nepal Trust) and has many interesting parts to visit. The main hall has a beautifully decorated statue of Sakyamuni Buddha. In smaller rooms you can find the complete Kenjur (Buddhist scriptures), masks and costumes used during festivals and more beautiful statues.

Close to the village there is a clinic, a micro hydro power plant and solar plant built by Nepal Trust that you can visit as well.

Accommodation: Close to the village you can find a campsite, run by the youth club of Halji. The youth club consist of young people below 40 years old, who want to contribute to the village. The money they earn with the campsite they use for helping villagers in need. Besides, they want to build a community hall, which can be used for meetings. Tourists will be able to stay there as well.

Day 12 – Halji to Jang (3930 m) 4 hrs

It’s an easy 4-hour walk from Halji to Jang, following the Limi Khola. Jang is the third and last village in the Limi Valley and, as with the other villages, it’s a magical place to be. It’s very special to be in such a secluded place where the Tibetan culture still continues relatively untouched, as far from the modern day world as you can be.

Accommodation: The campsite is close to the village and is run by the youth club of Jang.

Day 13 – Jang to Talung (4370 m) 8 hrs

It will be hard to leave Jang, knowing you will be leaving the Limi Valley and its authentic Tibetan villages with their friendly people. In the coming days there won’t be any more villages until Kermi and you will be walking through completely desolate landscapes. The trail goes up slowly but steadily. The thin air will force you to walk slowly.

Accommodation: campsite in the middle of nowhere

Day 14 – Talung to Shinjungma (3620 m), crossing the Nyalu La (4940 m) 8 hrs

The second spectacular pass day of this adventure! It’s a very tough, but rewarding climb to the highest point of the trek, the Nyalu La, at 4940 meters. There can be snow and ice, which makes the climb more challenging. From the pass you have breathtaking 360 degrees views into Humla and Tibet. You can see the holy Mount Kailash (6714 m) and Mount Saipal (7031 m) and the many more snowcapped mountains that stretch out before you.

From the pass it is a steep downward slope to the lake Selma Tso at 4630 meter. The trail continues going down, following the Salli River, to the campsite at Shinjungma. Along the way you have many more beautiful views of Mount Saipal.

Accommodation: campsite in the middle of nowhere.

Day 15 – Shinjungma to Kermi (2670 m) 7 hrs

Today you go back to civilization, and walk back to Kermi village. You will drop below 3000 m for the first time in 10 days. It’s a pleasant walk through pine and birch forests and along the beautiful Salli Khola, with rocks towering on both sides of the trail. The trail meets the Karnali river again and turns east towards Kermi village. In Kermi you can relax your tired muscles in the hot springs, a great reward for your efforts of the last days!

Day 16 – Kermi to Simikot (2950 m) 6 hrs

It’s a pretty long day today to Simikot. The first part up till Darapuri (2300 m) and Majgaon (2290 m) is pleasant walking. The trail is Nepali Flat, sometimes going up and down. From Majgaon a long climb of about 2 hours waits from the Karnali River up till a pass just over 3000 meter. But after the pass it’s just 30 more minutes back to Simikot and a well-deserved beer and hot shower!

Day 17 – Flight Simikot-Nepalgunj-Kathmandu

Early morning flight back to Kathmandu, via Nepalgunj.

This is a rather short and not too difficult hike. Leaving from Kathmandu, it’s a 7 day trip, but it could be longer or shorter, depending on the number of hours you choose to walk per day.

The walk goes through a varied scenery: cultivated fields and dry landscapes close to Juphal and beautiful pine forests with the wild flowing Phoksundo river besides you further up.

The Phoksundo Lake is one of the most beautiful lakes in the world. It’s deep blue and emerald colors are enchanting. In Ringmo, the village close to the lake, you can experience Bonpo culture.

There are guesthouses in Juphal, Dunai, Kageni, Chhepka, close to Sanduwa (next to the Amchi Hospital) and Ringmo, so you don’t need to camp if you don’t want to.

Walking times are of course a guideline and differ from person to person. The times mentioned, are excluding breaks.

Day 1 Flight Kathmandu-Nepalgunj.

To get to Dolpa, you have to fly to Nepalgunj first. Nepalgunj is a steaming hot city in South Western Nepal, in the lowlands of Terai, close to the Indian border. Take a cycle rikshaw for a ride in town. You pass the hustle and bustle of the bazaar and see horse carts full of people going to or coming from the Indian border.

Day 2 Flight Nepalgunj-Juphal (2475 m), walk to Chhepka (2838 m) 6 hrs

It’s a spectacular 35 minutes flight over steep mountain ridges to Juphal. Juphal airport is just a gravel airstrip among the mountains and Juphal a small, mostly Hindu village.

From Juphal you walk down over a small path among fields with wheat and vegetables to the Thuli Bheri River. It’s a pretty steep decline of about 1 hour. Down at the river, the path is rather flat and large. After some 45 minutes you pass a small Hindu village, Kalagaonda, where you could stop for a tea.

From here it’s another 45 minutes to a big iron suspension bridge, the Dhim Bridge of 99 m long. This is the entrance to the Shey Phoksundo National Park (SPNP). After crossing the bridge you have to cross a wooden bridge, after which you find the checkpost of the Park. SPNP is Nepal’s largest National Park, established in 1984, with an area of 3,555 km². It aims to conserve the Trans-Himalayan ecosystem and the Tibetan type of flora and fauna. In 1998, and area of 1,349 km² surrounding the park was declared as buffer zone, which is jointly managed by the park and local communities. You have to pay 1000 NPR entrance fee (except persons from SAARC countries, who pay 100 NPR).

The path follows the Suli Khola River. It’s an easy, fairly level walk through a bit dry, open landscape. Behind you, you can see the snowcapped Kang Tokal (6294 m).

After more or less an hour walking, you reach Kageni (2413 m). In Kageni is a small hotel with a campsite, Raju Hotel, where you could stop for lunch or stay for the night.

Close to Kageni is Raktang (2421 m), an overwinter place for people from Ringmo, where you can camp as well.

After Raktang, the path starts to climb, with some short descends in between. More or less half an hour after Raktang, you enter the forest. It’s a beautiful walk, alongside the wild flowing river, which at some parts is beautiful emerald green. You walk alongside pine trees, like spruce, fir, juniper and cypress and pass small bamboo forests and walnut trees. At the other side of the river, the rocky slope goes up steeply and is dotted with pine trees as well.

After about an hour, you arrive at Shyanta (2520 m). Here honey is cultivated. It’s a great place for a tea with honey! While sipping your tea, you can see the bees going in and out the beehives, made from tree trunks. More or less an hour after Shyanta, you reach Chhepka. Chhepka is a small village, surrounded by fields of barley. It has three hotels, La Lee Gurans Hotel and Lodge, Hotel Jharana and Yak Hotel and Lodge.

Day 2 Chhepka (3982 m) to Sanduwa/Amchi Hospital (3110 m) 6 hrs

The path goes entirely through the forest today. Most of it is Nepali flat: sometimes going up and sometimes going down, with a couple of steeper climbs and descents, following the river all the time. It’s about 3 ½ – 4 hours walking to Rechi. The village Rechi is at the other side of the river. It’s a very small village and consists of just a couple of houses and a primary school. Just after passing Rechi, there is a tent-hotel with a camping spot, where you could stop for a dal bhat (the typical Nepali dish, consisting of lentils (dal), rice (bhat) and normally a curry dish (thakari) or noodle soup. Tent-hotels are big Tibetan tents set up to serve food and drinks to travelers. Besides local restaurants, they serve as a shop as well, and you can buy a variety of items here, like biscuits, juice, Lhasa beer, shampoo etc. They mostly cater to local people, but small groups of foreign travelers use them as well. You can put up your tent here as well, if you want to call it a day.

It’s about 2 hours walking to the Amchi Hospital, which is just after Sanduwa. The path is Nepali flat again, so it’s an easy walk. The walk goes almost entirely through beautiful pine forests, with some bushes, birches and other broadleaf trees in it as well. The path stays close to the river (which is called Phoksundo Khola now). On the way you encounter local people with their mules or jhopas (crossbreed between yak and cow) laden with things to sell. 5 minutes before reaching the Amchi Hospital you pass a tent-hotel, which could be a good place to camp and/or have diner. Just after, you see the Boarding School, which also serves the children of Ringmo and is financed by a USA based organization.

Just after the school, you arrive at the Amchi Hospital. This is a very interesting place and worth a visit. In fact it is more a clinic, which is well frequented by local people. An Amchi is a doctor who is educated in traditional Tibetan medicine, and always is a lama (monk) as well. Tibetan medicine has a tradition of thousands of years and uses techniques as pulse analysis and urine analysis for diagnosis. For treatment, medicines made of herbs and minerals are used, together with physical therapies, like Tibetan acupuncture. In the Amchi Hospital you can see a collection of herbs and minerals used to cure people. Most Dolpa people prefer to visit the Amchi over a regular doctor when they are ill. A donation is highly welcomed to keep this tradition alive, and hopefully the patients too.

Next to the Amchi Hospital is a guesthouse, Jharana Hotel.

Day 3 Sanduwa/Amchi Hospital (3110 m) to Ringmo/Phoksundo Lake (3733 m) 3 hrs

It’s a short hike today to Ringmo and the Phoksundo Lake. The first half an hour is Nepali flat again, following the river. After this, it’s a long and sometimes steep climb over a winding and a bit dusty path. Soon you will see the river flowing far below you. After 1 to 1½ hour climbing you see a viewpoint with Buddhist flags. From the viewpoint you will see a spectacular waterfall of 167 meters high, the Suligad Waterfall (also called Phoksundo Waterfall), Nepal’s highest waterfall.

A very worthwhile place to take a break. Five minutes after the viewpoint you will reach the top, and you will have your first view of the view of the Phoksundo Lake. The path is going down now for about half an hour until it gets close to the river again. It’s now half an hour more Nepali flat, walking through the forests, till you reach Ringmo.

Ringmo is a charming village. People practice the Bonpo religion here. Bonpo is a lot older than Buddhism and back thousands of years. It has more animistic aspects than Buddhism. For outsiders it is difficult to see the difference between Bonpo and Buddhism, but one small but important detail is that you have to cross their mani walls (low walls with many stones with Buddhist mantra’s carved on it) and chortens anti clockwise, while according to Buddhist custom, you pass them clockwise.

The women wear dark or checked dresses with colorful aprons made from yak wool. You see fewer men in the typical dress, which is a long coat, from which they let one sleeve hanging down. Strolling around the village, you might see women weaving. In Ringmo women make very nice woven products, like belts, bags, shawls and blankets. Most items are made from cotton, but they also sell products made from yak wool. There are a few shops where you can buy these. These shops serve as a general shop as well, and you can fill up your stocks of biscuits for the rest of the trek.

Ringmo has 2 guesthouses, Trekkers Lodge and Sherpa Hotel and Lodge.

Ringmo lies at the shore of Phoksundo Lake. This lake is beautiful beyond compare. It has an enchanting deep blue color and is emerald green close to the shore. The water is crystal clear, with no aquatic life in it. Steep cliffs and snowcapped mountains surround the lake. The colors change a little during the day; you just won’t get enough of simply looking at it. At the shore of the lake, there is a wonderful campsite.

If you want, you can walk a part of the famous Demons Trail from the movie Himalaya (Caravan) of Eric Valli. This is a beautiful movie about the life of people in Dolpa, who bring their yaks over difficult passes bearing salt from Tibet to trade with grain from the lowlands. In the movie, this trail is used during this salt caravan and one of the yaks falls in the lake here. It’s a spectacular trail, going high above the lake . At some parts it gets very narrow due to landslides.

At the other shore, there is a beautiful Bonpo Monastery which you can visit. It’s a 20-minute walk to the monastery through the pine forest. In the monastery you can observe a statue of Thönpa Chenrab, the founder of Bonpo religion, a Buddha who lived thousands of years ago.

Day 4 Ringmo/Phoksundo Lake (3733 m), free day

As the Phoksundo Lake is such a beautiful place, a free day here is recommended.

Day 5 Ringmo/Phoksundo Lake (3733 m) to Chhepka (2838 m) via Rechi (2940 m) 7 hrs

You can walk the following stretch in two short days, or one long day. Walking time to Rechi is about 3 ½ hours (excluding breaks) and from Rechi to Chhepka is 3 ½ hours as well.

The walk to Rechi goes almost entirely through beautiful pine forests, with some bushes, birches and other broad leaved trees mixed in. Leaving Ringmo, the path is rather flat at first, with some ups and downs (Nepali flat) and stays close to the river (Phoksundo Khola). After half an hour however, the path goes away from the river and climbs steeply up the hill. Soon you will see the river far below you. The climb takes about half an hour. At the top you have a beautiful last view of the Phoksundo Lake. 5 minutes after the top, you’ll see the viewpoint again with Buddhist flags, from which you see the Suligad Waterfall/Phoksundo Waterfall. And then it is going down, down and more down. The first 45 minutes pretty steep but after that it will be Nepali flat again. More or less one hour after the viewpoint you are at the same level as the river again and you reach the Amchi Hospital. 5 minutes after the Amchi Hospital, you cross a bridge, after which you will find a tent-hotel, which could be a nice tea break. From here, it’s about 1 ½ hour walking to Rechi (2940 m). The path is Nepali flat again, going through the forest, it’s an easy walk. Just before Rechi, there is a tent-hotel with a camping spot, where you can stop for lunch or put up your tent.

The path continues steeply uphill for about 15 minutes (you can see Rechi on the other side of the river) and afterwards goes down steeply as well. Than it’s Nepali flat again. It’s about 3 to 3 ½ hours walking to Chhepka, going up and down, with a couple of steeper climbs and descends, following the river all the time. You notice that you are descending, not only by the increasing temperature, but also by the difference in vegetation. For example, you see bamboo again, and big walnut trees. About 1½ hour after leaving Rechi you pass a bridge and the path continues at the right side of the river. One hour and a couple of steep ups and downs later another bridge takes you back to the left side of the river. It’s now another half hour through the forest to reach Chhepka.

Day 6 Chhepka (2838 m) to Juphal (2475 m) 6 hrs

The day starts with a short climb. Then it is most of the times descending, with some small climbs in between. You walk through the forest again, with below you the wild flowing river. After more or less 40 minutes, you arrive at Shyanta (2520 m). About half an hour after leaving Shyanta, you leave the forest, and you suddenly walk through a bit dry landscape. In front of you, you can see the snowcapped Kang Tokal (6294 m).

You pass villages like Raktang (2421 m) and Kageni (2413 m) where you arrive about 1 hour 15 min after leaving Shyanta. An hour later, you cross a suspension bridge. Soon after, there is the checkpost of the Shey Phoksundo National Park (SPNP), where you have to show your permit and entree ticket of the SPNP. After the checkpost you have to cross a wooden bridge and walk for a couple of minutes to the big iron suspension bridge (the Dhim Bridge). After crossing the bridge you walk left (west) to Juphal. If you go right (east) here, you go to Dunai, where you arrive in about 45 minutes. Dunai is the headquarters of Dolpa District. It’s a large village, of about 2,500 people, more or less half Hindu and half Buddhist. Up the hill, there is a Buddhist monastery, which is worth a visit.

To Juphal it’s about 2½ – 3 hours from the bridge. The first part goes over a large path. After 45 minutes, you pass through the small village Kalagaonda. About 45 minutes later, you leave the main road and walk over a small path, through fields of barley and wheat, with walnut, peach and apricot trees. It’s a pretty steep climb of about 1 – 1½ hour to reach Juphal. Just before arriving, you pass the Hindu village Dangiwada. Juphal is a large village with a small bazaar where it is nice to spend a little time looking around.

Day 7 Flight Juphal-Nepalgunj-Kathmandu

Early in the morning you fly to Nepalgunj. Especially the first part of the flight through the mountain valleys is spectacular. Later in the day, you fly back to Kathmandu.

Leaving from Kathmandu, it’s a 14 day trip, but it could be longer or shorter, depending on the length of your walking days.

There are guesthouses in Juphal, Dunai, Lingdo, Dho Tarap, Ringmo, close to Sanduwa (next to the Amchi Hospital), Chhepka and Kageni. At the other places you have to camp.

Walking times are of course a guideline and differ from person to person. The times mentioned, are excluding breaks.

Day 1 Flight Kathmandu-Nepalganj.

To get to Dolpa, you have to fly to Nepalgunj first. Nepalgunj is a steaming hot city in South Western Nepal, in the lowlands of Terai, close to the Indian border. Take a cycle rickshaw for a ride in town. You pass the hustle and bustle of the bazaar and see horse carts full with people going to or coming from the Indian border.

Day 2 Flight Nepalgunj-Juphal (2475 m), walk to Dunai (2140 m) 2 ½ hrs

It’s a spectacular 35 minutes flight over steep mountain ridges to Juphal. Juphal airport is just a gravel airstrip amidst the mountains and Juphal a small, mostly Hindu village.

From Juphal you walk down over a small path among fields with wheat and vegetables to the Thuli Bheri River. It’s a pretty steep decline of about 1 hour. Down at the river, the path is rather flat and large. You pass a small Hindu village, Kalagaonda, where you could stop for a tea. From here it’s 1½ hour to Dunai. 45 minutes before Dunai, you pass a beautiful gate chorten (stupa), which is the entrance to the VDC (Village Development Committee) Dunai. Inside the chorten you can observe some beautiful Buddhist paintings of important Buddhist figures and mandala’s.

Dunai is the headquarters of Dolpa District. It’s a large village, of about 2,500 people, more or less half Hindu and half Buddhist. Up the hill, there is a Buddhist monastery, which is worth a visit.

Day 3 Dunai (2140 m) to Lingdo (2391 m) 5 hrs

Leaving Dunai, you first walk alongside some agricultural plots and houses. Soon you walk in a beautiful mountain landscape, which sometimes reminds to the European Alps. Rocky slopes are dotted with pine trees, mostly blue pine. At the horizon you see the snowcapped Kang Tokal (6294 m). The path goes slightly up and down, following the Thuli Bheri River, once and a while passing a couple of houses.

After 2 ½ hours your reach Byasgar (2427 m) which has a small local restaurant, serving dal bhat (the typical Nepali dish, consisting of lentils (dal), rice (bhat) and normally a curry dish (thakari). After leaving Dunai, all the villages you come across are inhabited by Buddhist people. In this region, the people who live here are Tarali’s, a Magar group.

After Byasgar, the landscape gets quickly more rough and rocky. The path is sometimes carved out of the rocks, and at a few points very narrow. There are plans to make a motor able road all the way to Dho Tarap. Walking here, it seems that this is really a big challenge, and it surely will take a couple of years; lot’s has to be done to achieve this. But, may be a reason not to wait too long if you want to visit Dolpa…

2-2 ½ hours after Byasgar you reach Lingdo, a small village with one guesthouse with a campingsite. Plus a checkpost, so have your permit at hand.

Day 4 Lingdo (2391 m) to Laina Odar (3370 m) 6 hrs

The path goes gradually up, with some flat parts as well. Along the way you have a good view to some of the villages in this region, like Sarakot, which is situated high on a cliff. These are the last villages you will see till you reach Dho Tarap. You pass some mani walls (a wall with many stones with Buddhist mantra’s carved on it) and chortens. According to Buddhist custom, you have to pass these Buddhist shrines on the left side, so clockwise. At the horizon you can see the beautiful snowcapped Kang Tokal (6294 m). The landscape is at some parts very green. The sharp rocks are dotted with pine trees, among which junipers. If you are lucky, you can see groups of large grey monkeys here. After 2 hours walking, you have to climb, sometimes steeply, for about 1 hour. The trail climbs high on a slope and goes high above the Thuli Bheri River, leading to a large suspension bridge of 120 meter, which is high above the river as well. You reached Laisicap (2772 m). There is a police checkpost here and you have to register and show your permit. On the other side of the bridge, there is a tent-hotel, where you could stop for a dal bhat or noodle soup. Tent-hotels are big Tibetan tents, set up to serve food and drinks to travelers. Besides local restaurants, they serve as a shop as well, and you can buy a variety of items here, like biscuits, juice, Lhasa beer, shampoo, etc.. They mostly cater to local people, but small groups of foreign travelers use them as well.

After Laisicap it’s a long and strenuous climb of about 3 hours to Laina Odar (3370 m). Although the trail is generally in good condition, there are a couple of landslide areas where the trail gets very narrow, and where passing is a bit difficult. If you are going with a local guide, of course he will be happy to assist you on those parts. The landscape is very beautiful. The path goes partly through forests and you are surrounded by steep cliffs full of pine trees, mostly spruce, fir, juniper and cypress, some of which are huge. Sometimes the river is far below you. Close to Laina Odar, the path goes alongside the river again. In Laina Odar there is another tent-hotel, located at the riverside. This is a good place to camp.

Day 5 Laina Odar (3370 m) to Nawarpani (3475 m) 4 hrs

5 minutes after leaving Laina Odar, the grail goes up to a small pass. It takes about 45 minutes climbing to reach the pass. After this, it’s a fairly easy walk with some small climbs over a pretty large path. The path sometimes goes very high above the river (which is called Tarap Khola now). After about 3 hours you cross the river over a suspension bridge and the path continues to the east side of the river. Half an hour later, another suspension bridge brings you back at the west (left) side of the river. It’s a beautiful walk again, sometimes going through pine forests, with a wonderful smell. About 4 hours after leaving Laina Odar, you reach Nawarpani (3475 m), where you find another tent-hotel. You can camp here as well. If you are feeling well and in good shape, you could continue and walk to Sisaul (3750 m) today.

Day 6 Nawarpani (3475 m) to Sisaul (3750 m) 3½ hrs

After Nawarpani the landscape quickly gets more barren. There are only few trees. You mostly walk in the river valley with high rocks towering above you on both sides. In this barren landscape the bluesheep lives. If you look out for them you have a big chance to see big groups high on the slopes. Besides, if you are really lucky, you might even spot a snowleopard…

It’s a fairly easy walk, gradually going up, with some parts going down as well. At some parts the path is beautifully carved out of the rock, so that you are walking in a kind of three sided tunnel. After 2½ to 3 hours, you have to climb steeply for about half an hour to a small pass with a nice chorten (stupa). From the pass, the path goes down steeply for about 15 minutes, after which it’s another 15 minutes to Sisaul (3750 m). Here you can camp along the river, next to a tent-hotel (this one doesn’t always sell food).

Day 7 Sisaul (3750 m) to Dho Tarap (4080 m) 4 hrs

Leaving Sisaul, the trail climbs steeply at first and then gradually for about half an hour to another small pass (just after this pass, and at several other places further along the path, there are places which are good for camping as well). More or less 15 minutes after the pass, the valley suddenly widens. The landscape has changed completely, It’s very dry and small bushes have taken the place of the trees of before. Gradually these bushes are disappearing almost completely as well. The trail stays besides the river. 2 hours after leaving Sisaul, you have to cross a bridge, and the path continues at the eastside of the river. 1 ½ hour later, you can see a small collection of houses in between the mountains: Dho Tarap. Getting nearer to Dho Tarap, you cross many mani walls and small chortens. Behind Dho, you can see the gompa (Buddhist monastery) of Dho, situated on a hill.

The people of Dho are direct descendents of Tibetans, which you can notice easily by their faces and their dress. The women wear dark dresses with colorful aprons made from yak wool. Many women wear bracelets of big shells and some have beautiful silver and turquoise headgear. Most men have long hair, some wear a red ribbon in their hair, in the style of Tibetan Khampas. Their typical dress is a long coat, from which they let one sleeve hanging down. Dho Tarap is a traditional agricultural village, surrounded by fields. Yaks are used to plough the land. Barley, buckwheat and potatoes are among the few crops that can grow in this barren landscape. But nowadays, small greenhouses enable the people to grow some green vegetables as well. Besides, people live from what the yak gives them (cheese, meat, wool) and from trade. The houses are made of stones found in the river valley and are in typical Tibetan style, with small windows and the flat roofs stocked with firewood. The people in Dho are very friendly. A Tashi Delek (good day, like the Nepali Namasté), is always welcomed with a big smile.

Close to Dho are 2 monasteries which are worth a visit. Ribo Bhumpa Gompa, right on the hill behind Dho, and Shipchaur Gompa, which is in the village Shipchok, 30 minutes walking from Dho.

Ribo Bhumpa Gompa belongs to Nyingmapa Buddhism, by the local people called Chöba Buddhism. Inside you find a beautiful big statue of Guru Rinpoche. Guru Rinpoche (Padmasambhava) is a very important Buddhist saint from the 7th century AD. He conquered the demons who were preventing Buddhism to get hold in Tibet and in this way made sure that Buddhism could be introduced in Tibet. You can easily recognize him, by his big eyes, little mustache and the staff with skulls he holds. Next to the gompa is a chorten with a chorten inside, which is said to hold the remains of a demon killed by Guru Rinpoche.

Shipchaur Gompa in Shipchok belongs to Bonpo Buddhism. Bonpo is a lot older than Buddhism and goes thousands of years back. It has more animistic aspects than Buddhism. For outsiders it is difficult to see the difference, but one important aspect is that you have to cross their mani walls and chortens anti clockwise. Unfortunately Shipchaur Gompa is in a very bad shape, and very much in need of restoration.

Dho has a big campsite close to the river, and 2 guesthouses where you can stay as well, Angad’s Gallery and Café and one without a name, but with a sign “hotel & shop”. In Angad’s Gallery and Café you can find beautiful pictures from daily life in Dho.

Day 8 Dho Tarap (3944 m) to Numala Base Camp (4440 m) 3 ½ hrs

As it is only a 3 ½ hours walk to Numala Base Camp, you can use the morning to explore Dho and surroundings. Leaving Dho, you pass nice a gate chorten. After more or less half an hour, you arrive at the Crystal Mountain School, which is educating children from Dho and surroundings. It is a nice school, sponsored by a French NGO. If you want, you can visit the school, the teachers are very pleased to show you around. The school has a telephone, the only telephone in Dho and surroundings (019-550522). From the school, it’s about half an hour to Tokyu (4209), a spread out village, which is said to be the highest permanent settlement in the world. From the beginning of the village, it is still half an hour walking to the gompa which is at the end of the village, and which is worth a visit. It has a beautiful statue of Maitreya, the Future Buddha. From the gompa, it is a gradual climb of about 1 ½ hour over grassy land to Numala Base Camp (4440 m). It’s in the middle of nowhere, but close to the river and you find a small house for cooking here.

Day 9 Numala Base Camp (4440 m) to Danigar (4631 m) via Numa La (Pass) (5318 m) 6 hrs

A very tough day lies before you. It’s a good idea to start early (between 5 and 6 am), to arrive early at the pass. In the morning the weather generally is best which makes the crossing of the pass easier and safer. Besides you have more chance to have a good view of the mountain ranges from the pass, as later in the day clouds tend to cover the peaks.

It’s a long and strenuous climb of about 3 hours (excluding breaks) to Numa La (la means pass) at 5318 m. The altitude makes you go slow and you get out of breath quickly. But it’s worth it. On a clear day you have a stunning view from the pass on countless snowcapped mountains. Daulagiri (8167 m) is towering above them to the right. Besides, you can see the Annapurna and Manaslu Range, the Shey Shikar (6139 m), Kanjirowa (6883 m) and many, many others. In spring there is a big chance that there is snow on the pass, so be prepared for this. After the pass you go down steeply for about an hour. After this, the path is pretty level, and goes alongside a river for about 20 minutes (this is the first chance to fill your water bottle after leaving camp). You have to cross the river, and climb slowly but steadily for about 1 hour. As the river goes down quickly, you find yourself soon high above the river. After a couple of turns, you arrive at a meadow, which is the campsite for today, Danigar (4631 m). It’s an amazing spot close to the river (Panklanga Khola). To the south you see the Norbung Kang (6085 m), a beautiful snowcapped mountain. On the other side of the river there are high pastures, which are often used by yaks to graze.

Day 10 Danigar (4631 m) via Baga La (5190 m) to Yak Kharka (3982 m) 6 hrs

Another pass to cross today, so another tough, but beautiful day. Again, an early start is best. The path continues on the slope on the other side of the Panklanga Khola and climbs pretty steep, going “zig zag” over the slope. Soon you are high above the river. After an hour or so, you cross a stream and the climb becomes more gradual. A good 2 hours after leaving camp (excluding breaks), you reach the high camp, which is already close to the pass. From the high camp you have an excellent view on the Norbung Kang and the Baga La range. Pretty soon after the high camp you can observe the last stretch of the path to the pass, climbing very gradually in a half circle over the slope. It’s a bit more than half an hour to reach the Baga La (5190 m) from here. From the pass you have a splendid view on different mountains of the Kanjirowa and other snowcapped mountains, like the Shey Shikhar. In spring there can be snow on the pass, which makes the crossing a bit harder. After the pass, the path descends pretty steep at the beginning. This part can be icy which makes it slippery, so watch your step, especially at the steeper parts. Besides, the loose stones can make the descend a bit difficult for your tired legs. But that’s all part of it! Besides, you walk in a stunning scenery of huge rocks in all kind of colors with at the horizon mountains covered with snow. So it’s worth it! And then, suddenly, more or less 1 ½ hour after leaving the pass, you see green bushes and a bit later even trees. In the distance you can observe green meadows far below you. A beautiful sight after those days without any trees. Besides, you will see a couple of waterfalls along the way. After less than half an hour, you arrive at the meadow. From here it’s rather flat and easy walking, very gradually going down, till you reach Yak Kharka (3982 m), about an hour later. Yak Kharka is another beautiful place to camp. You have a great view of the imposing Kanjirowa Himal (6612 m). Besides, in spring the meadows are full with flowers.

Day 11 Yak Kharka (3982 m) to Ringmo/Phoksundo Lake (3733 m) 2 ½ hrs

It’s a short hike today, and if you have the energy, you can even walk this part at the same day as crossing the Baga La.

Pretty soon after leaving Yak Kharka, the path starts to climb high on the slope, and the river (Maduwa Khola) is soon far below you. The path is going up and down and stays level sometimes: that is what they call Nepali flat. The path is beautifully carved out of the rocks, but at some points the path is really narrow, so walk carefully. After a bit more than an hour, you have to climb steeply for about half an hour to a small pass. After the pass, the path goes into a pine forest, and sometimes climbs a bit as well. If you detour from the path soon after entering the forest and go to the left to the edge of the ridge, you can see a nice waterfall.

You walk through some beautiful pine forests and meadows for about half an hour. It’s nice to hear the birds singing. Leaving the forest, you cross a small bridge from which you climb for a couple of minutes to Ringmo. Ringmo is a charming village. People practice the Bonpo religion here. Although women are dressed similar to the women in Dho, you can notice some differences. For example, they wear checked skirts mostly over checked trousers. As the women in Dho, they cover the dress with a apron woven from yak wool in different colors. Strolling around the village, you might see women weaving. In Ringmo women make very nice woven products, like belts, bags, shawls and blankets. Most items are made from cotton, but they also sell products from yak wool. There a a few shops where you can buy this. These shops serve as a general shop as well, and you can fill your stock of biscuits, etc for the rest of the trek. Ringmo has 2 guesthouses, Trekkers Lodge and Sherpa Hotel and Lodge.

Ringmo lies at the shore of Phoksundo Lake. This lake is of a beauty beyond compare. It has an enchanting deep blue color and is emerald green close to the shore. The water is crystal clear, with not any marine life in it. Steep bold rocks and snowcapped mountains surround the lake. The colors change a bit during the day; you just won’t get enough looking at it. At the shore of the lake, there is a beautiful campsite.

If you want, you can walk a part of the famous Demons Trail from the movie Himalaya (Caravan) of Eric Valli. This is a beautiful movie about the life of people in Dolpa, who bring their yaks over difficult passes bearing salt from Tibet to trade with grain from the lowlands. In the movie, this trail is used during this salt caravan and one of the yaks falls in the lake here. It’s a spectacular trail, going high above the lake . At some parts it gets very narrow due to landslides.

At the other shore, there is a beautiful Bonpo Monastery which you can visit. It’s a 20 minute walk to the monastery through the pine forest. In the monastery you can observe a statue of Thönpa Chenrab,the founder of Bonpo religion, a Buddha who lived thousands of years ago.

Phoksundo Lake is part of the Shey Phoksundo National Park. It’s Nepal’s largest National Park, established in 1984, with an area of 3,555 km². It aims to conserve the Trans-Himalayan ecosystem and the Tibetan type of flora and fauna. In 1998, and area of 1,349 km² surrounding the park was declared as buffer zone, which is jointly managed by the park and local communities. There is a checkpost of the park here and you have to pay 1000 NPR entrance fee (except persons from SAARC countries, who pay 100 NPR).

Day 12 Ringmo/Phoksundo Lake (3733 m) to Chhepka (2838 m) via Rechi (2940 m) 7 hrs

You can walk the following stretch in two short days, or one long day. Walking time to Rechi is about 3 ½ hours (excluding breaks) and from Rechi to Chhepka is 3 ½ hours as well.

The walk to Rechi goes almost entirely through beautiful pine forests, with some bushes, birches and other broadleaf trees in it as well. Leaving Ringmo, the path is rather flat at first, with some ups and downs (Nepali flat) and stays close to the river (Phoksundo Khola). After half an hour however, the path goes away from the river and climbs steeply up the hill. Soon you will see the river far below you. The climb takes about half an hour. At the top you have a beautiful last view of the Phoksundo Lake. 5 minutes after the top, there is a viewpoint with Buddhist flags, from which you will see a spectacular waterfall of 167 meters high, the Suligad Waterfall (also called Phoksundo Waterfall), Nepal’s highest waterfall. A nice place for a little break.

And then it is going down, down and down. The first 45 minutes pretty steep but after that it will be Nepali flat again. More or less one hour after the viewpoint you are at the same level as the river again and you reach the Amchi Hospital. This is a very interesting place and worth a visit. In fact it is more a clinique, which is highly frequented by local people, but unfortunately not so often by tourists. An Amchi is a doctor who is educated in traditional Tibetan medicine, and always is a lama (monk) as well. Tibetan medicine has a tradition of thousands of years and uses techniques as pulse analysis and urine analysis for diagnosis. For treatment medicines made of herbs and minerals are used, together with physical therapies, like Tibetan acupuncture. In the Amchi Hospital you can see a collection of herbs and minerals used to cure people. Most Dolpa people prefer to visit the Amchi over a regular doctor when they are ill. A donation is highly welcomed to keep this tradition living. Next to the Amchi Hospital is a guesthouse as well, Jharana Hotel.

5 minutes after leaving the Amchi Hospital you pass the Boarding School, which is financed by a USA based organization (here is also the first water refill opportunity of today).

Just after the school, you cross a bridge, after which you will find a tent-hotel, which could be a nice tea break. From here, it’s about 1 ½ hour walking to Rechi (2940 m). The path is Nepali flat again, so it’s an easy walk. You walk through the forest, with birds singing. The river flows rapidly right from you and is beautiful emerald green at some places. On the other side of the river, the rocky slope goes up steeply high above you, and is dotted with pine trees. On the way you encounter local people with their mules or jhopas (crossbreed between yak and cow) loaded with stuff to sell. Just before Rechi, there is a tent-hotel with a camping spot, where you can stop for lunch or put up your tent if you want to call it a day. The village Rechi is at the other side of the river. It’s a very small village and consists of just a couple of houses and a primary school.

The path continues steeply uphill for about 15 minutes (you can see Rechi on the other side of the river) and afterwards goes down steeply as well. Than it’s Nepali flat again. It’s about 3 to 3 ½ hours walking to Chhepka, going up and down, with a couple of steeper climbs and descends, following the river all the time. You notice that you are descending, not only by the higher temperature, but also by the difference in vegetation. For example, you see bamboo now, and big walnut trees. About 1½ hour after leaving Rechi you pass a bridge and the path continues at the right side of the river. One hour and a couple of steep ups and downs later another bridge takes you back to the left side of the river. It’s now another half hour through the forest to reach Chhepka.

Chhepka is a small village, surrounded by fields of barley. It has three hotels, La lee gurans Hotel and Lodge, Hotel Jharana and Yak Hotel and Lodge.

Day 13 Chhepka (2838 m) to Juphal (2475 m) 6 hrs

The day starts with a short climb. Then it is most of the times descending, with some small climbs in between. You walk through the forest again, with below you the wild flowing river. After about 40 minutes, you arrive at Shyanta (2520 m). Here honey is cultivated. It’s a nice place for a tea with honey! Zipping your tea, you can see the bees going in and out the beehives, made from tree trunks. About half an hour after leaving Shyanta, you leave the forest, and you suddenly walk through a bit dry landscape. In front of you, you can see the snowcapped Kang Tokal (6294 m).

You pass villages like Raktang (2421 m), a winterplace for people from Ringmo and Kageni (2413 m) where you arrive about 1 hour 15 min after leaving Shyanta. In Kageni is a small hotel, Raju Hotel, where you could stop for a tea. An hour later, you cross a suspension bridge. Soon after, there is a checkpost of the Shey Phoksundo National Park (SPNP), where you have to show your permit and entree ticket of the SPNP.

After the checkpost you have to cross a wooden bridge and walk for a couple of minutes to a big iron suspension bridge, the Dhim Bridge of 99 m long. After crossing the bridge you walk left (west) to Juphal. If you go right (east) here, you go to Dunai, where you arrive in about 45 minutes.

To Juphal it’s about 2½ – 3 hours from the bridge. The first part goes over a large path. After 45 minutes, you pass through the small village Kalagaonda. About 45 minutes later, you leave the main road and walk over a small path, through fields of barley and wheat, with walnut, peach and apricot trees. It’s a pretty steep climb of about 1 – 1½ hour to reach Juphal. Just before arriving, you pass the Hindu village Dangiwada. Juphal is a large village with a small bazaar where it is nice to look around.

Day 14 Flight Juphal-Nepalgunj-Kathmandu

Early in the morning you fly to Nepalgunj. Especially the first part of the flight through the mountain valleys is spectacular. Later in the day, you fly back to Kathmandu.

Inner Dolpo is a restricted area, for which a fee is charged of US$ 500 for the first 10 days, and US$ 50 for each additional day. Besides, there is a maximum of the number of foreigners that can enter Inner Dolpo each year. Currently this maximum is put at 250 people. This makes Inner Dolpo a very special and exclusive place.

The trekking brings you to Shey Gompa, which is often referred to as the spiritual heart of Inner Dolpo. It’s a magical place, situated at the base of Crystal Mountain, which is visited by hundreds of pilgrims each year. They make a kora (circuit) of the Crystal Mountain, Dolpo’s own version of Mount Kailas. The trek is an extension of the Dolpa Circuit, done in the other direction.

It is a very strenuous hike. You have to cross three passes, Kang La/ Ngadra La of 5350 m, the Shey La of 5000 m and Jeng La of 5110 m. These crossings involve long climbs and long descends. Besides, you stay above 4000 meters for a long time, with very cold nights. But the unforgettable landscapes, the views from the passes and the contacts with an untouched culture make it all worth it.

Leaving from Kathmandu, it’s a 20 days trip, but it can be extended as well, depending on the length of your walking days.

There are guesthouses in Juphal, Dunai, Kageni, Chhepka, close to Sanduwa (next to the Amchi Hospital), Ringmo, Shey, Saldang, Dho and Lingdo. At the other places you have to camp.

Walking times are of course a guideline and differ from person to person. The times mentioned, are excluding breaks.

Day 1 Flight Kathmandu-Nepalgunj.

To get to Dolpa, you have to fly to Nepalgunj first. Nepalgunj is a steaming hot city in South Western Nepal, in the lowlands of Terai, close to the Indian border. Take a cycle riksha for a ride in town. You pass the hustle and bustle of the bazaar and see horse carts full with people going to or coming from the Indian border.

Day 2 Flight Nepalgunj-Juphal (2475 m), walk to Chhepka (2838 m) 6 hrs

It’s a spectacular 35 minutes flight over steep mountain ridges to Juphal. Juphal airport is just a gravel airstrip amidst the mountains and Juphal a small, mostly Hindu village.

From Juphal you walk down over a small path among fields with wheat and vegetables to the Thuli Bheri River. It’s a pretty steep decline of about 1 hour. Down at the river, the path is rather flat and large. After some 45 minutes you pass a small Hindu village, Kalagaonda, where you could stop for a tea.

From here it’s another 45 minutes to a big iron suspension bridge, the Dhim Bridge of 99 m long. This is the entrance to the Shey Phoksundo National Park (SPNP). After crossing the bridge you have to cross a wooden bridge, after which you find the checkpost of the Park. SPNP is Nepal’s largest National Park, established in 1984, with an area of 3,555 km². It aims to conserve the Trans-Himalayan ecosystem and the Tibetan type of flora and fauna. In 1998, and area of 1,349 km² surrounding the park was declared as buffer zone, which is jointly managed by the park and local communities. You have to pay 1000 NPR entrance fee (except persons from SAARC countries, who pay 100 NPR).

The path follows the Suli Khola river. It’s an easy, fairly level walk through a bit dry, open landscape. Behind you, you can see the snowcapped Kang Tokal (6294 m).

After more or less an hour walking, you reach Kageni (2413 m). In Kageni is a small hotel with a campsite, Raju Hotel, where you could stop for lunch or stay for the night.

Close to Kageni is Raktang (2421 m), a winterplace for people from Ringmo, where you can camp as well.

After Raktang, the path starts to climb, with some short descends in between. More or less half an hour after Raktang, you enter the forest. It’s a beautiful walk, alongside the wild flowing river, which at some parts is beautiful emerald green. You walk alongside pine trees, like spruce, fir, juniper and cypress and pass small bamboo forests and walnut trees. At the other side of the river, the rocky slope goes up steeply and is dotted with pine trees as well.

After about an hour, you arrive at Shyanta (2520 m). Here honey is cultivated. It’s a nice place for a tea with honey! Zipping your tea, you can see the bees going in and out the beehives, made from tree trunks. More or less an hour after Shyanta, you reach Chhepka. Chhepka is a small village, surrounded by fields of barley. It has three hotels, La lee gurans Hotel and Lodge, Hotel Jharana and Yak Hotel and Lodge.

Day 2 Chhepka (3982 m) to Sanduwa/Amchi Hospital (3110 m) 6 hrs

The path goes entirely through the forest today. Most of it is Nepali flat: sometimes going up and sometimes going down, with a couple of steeper climbs and descends, following the river all the time. It’s about 3 ½ – 4 hours walking to Rechi. The village Rechi is at the other side of the river. It’s a very small village and consists of just a couple of houses and a primary school. Just after passing Rechi, there is a tent-hotel with a camping spot, where you could stop for a dal bhat (the typical Nepali dish, consisting of lentils (dal), rice (bhat) and normally a curry dish (thakari) or noodle soup. Tent-hotels are big Tibetan tents, set up to serve food and drinks to travelers. Besides local restaurants, they serve as a shop as well, and you can buy a variety of items here, like biscuits, juice, Lhasa beer, shampoo, etc.. They mostly cater to local people, but small groups of foreign travelers use them as well. You can put up your tent here as well, if you want to call it a day.

It’s about 2 hours walking to the Amchi Hospital, which is just after Sanduwa. The path is Nepali flat again, so it’s an easy walk. The walk goes almost entirely through beautiful pine forests, with some bushes, birches and other broadleaf trees in it as well. The path stays close to the river (which is called Phoksundo Khola now). On the way you encounter local people with their mules or jhopas (crossbreed between yak and cow) loaded with stuff to sell. 5 minutes before reaching the Amchi Hospital you pass a tent-hotel, which could be a good place to camp and/or have diner. Just after this you see the Boarding School, which also serves the children of Ringmo and is financed by a USA based organization. Just after the school, you arrive at the Amchi Hospital. This is a very interesting place and worth a visit. In fact it is more a clinique, which is highly frequented by local people, but unfortunately not so often by tourists. An Amchi is a doctor who is educated in traditional Tibetan medicine, and always is a lama (monk) as well. Tibetan medicine has a tradition of thousands of years and uses techniques as pulse analysis and urine analysis for diagnosis. For treatment medicines made of herbs and minerals are used, together with physical therapies, like Tibetan acupuncture. In the Amchi Hospital you can see a collection of herbs and minerals used to cure people. Most Dolpa people prefer to visit the Amchi over a regular doctor when they are ill. A donation is highly welcomed to keep this tradition living. Next to the Amchi Hospital is a guesthouse, Jharana Hotel.

Day 3 Sanduwa/Amchi Hospital (3110 m) to Ringmo/Phoksundo Lake (3733 m) 3 hrs

It’s a short hike today to Ringmo and the Phoksundo Lake. The first half an hour is Nepali flat again, following the river. After this, it’s a long and sometimes steep climb over a winding and a bit dusty path. Soon you will see the river flowing far below you. After 1 to 1½ hour climbing you see a viewpoint with Buddhist flags. From the viewpoint you will see a spectacular waterfall of 167 meters high, the Suligad Waterfall (also called Phoksundo Waterfall), Nepal’s highest waterfall. A nice place for a little break. 5 minutes after the viewpoint you will reach the top, and you will have your first view of the view of the Phoksundo Lake. The path is going down now for about half an hour until it gets close to the river again. It’s now half an hour more Nepali flat, walking through the forests, till you reach Ringmo.

Ringmo is a charming village. People practice the Bonpo religion here. Bonpo is a lot older than Buddhism and goes thousands of years back. It has more animistic aspects than Buddhism. For outsiders it is difficult to see the difference between Bonpo and Buddhism, but one important aspect is that you have to cross their mani walls (low walls with many stones with Buddhist mantra’s carved on it) and chortens anti-clockwise, while according to Buddhist custom, you pass them clockwise. The women wear dark or checked dresses with colorful aprons made from yak wool. You see fewer men in the typical dress, which is a long coat, from which they let one sleeve hanging down. Strolling around the village, you might see women weaving. In Ringmo women make very nice woven products, like belts, bags, shawls and blankets. Most items are made from cotton, but they also sell products made from yak wool. There are a few shops where you can buy this. These shops serve as a general shop as well, and you can fill your stock of biscuits, etc for the rest of the trek. Ringmo has 2 guesthouses, Trekkers Lodge and Sherpa Hotel and Lodge.

Ringmo lies at the shore of Phoksundo Lake. This lake is of a beauty beyond compare. It has an enchanting deep blue color and is emerald green close to the shore. The water is crystal clear, with not any marine life in it. Steep bold rocks and snowcapped mountains surround the lake. The colors change a bit during the day; you just won’t get enough looking at it. At the shore of the lake, there is a beautiful campsite.

There is a beautiful Bonpo Gompa (Monastery) at the shore of the lake, which is worth a visit. It’s a 20 minute walk to the monastery through the pine forest. In the monastery you can observe a statue of Thönpa Chenrab, the founder of Bonpo religion, a Buddha who lived thousands of years ago.

Day 4 Ringmo/Phoksundo Lake (3733 m), free day

It is indispensable to have an extra day in Ringmo, as your body needs time to acclimatize to the higher altitude. As the Phoksundo Lake is such a beautiful place, it’s a perfect place for a free day.

Day 5 Ringmo/Phoksundo Lake (3733 m) to Chuneba (3639 m) 5 hrs

Today you enter the restricted area of Inner Dolpo. You follow the famous Demons Trail from the movie Himalaya (Caravan) of Eric Valli, a beautiful movie about the life of people in Dolpa who bring their yaks over difficult passes bearing salt from Tibet to trade with grain from the lowlands. In the movie, this trail is used during this salt caravan and one of the yaks falls in the lake here. It’s a spectacular trail, going high above the lake . At some parts it gets very narrow due to landslides. The trail climbs to a ridge, from which you have a spectacular view on the lake, Ringmo, the dark green pine forests and the snowcapped mountain Norbung Kang (6085 m) to the south. It’s now a gradual descend to the lake northern shore, which is a good place for lunch. After this the trail climbs through a wide valley, crossing some streams. You have a splendid and nearby view to the flanks and tops of the snowcapped Kanjirowa Himal (6612 m).You arrive at an alpine area with pine trees (junipers), which is a good place to camp.

Day 6 Lakeside camp (3639 m) to Snowfields Camp (4400 m) 7 hrs

The Phoksundo Valley gets quite narrow, with high rock walls on both sides. You have to cross a couple of streams. After about half an hour, you leave the main valley and enter a narrow gorge. It’s a long, pretty steep climb through the steep sided valley. The campsite is at Snowfields Camp, a name given by Peter Mathiesson in his famous book the Snowleopard. It’s at the foot of the pass that will bring you in the heart of Inner Dolpo tomorrow.

Day 7 Snowfields Camp (4400 m) to Shey Gompa (4310 m) via Kang La (5375 m) 6 hrs

It’s a long and strenuous climb of about 2½ hours over a dusty path to Kang La (5350 m), locally also called Ngadra La. Prayer flags and cairns mark the pass. At the north side of the pass, there is snow most of the times, which makes the descend a bit difficult. The descend is pretty steep the first 45 minutes, but after this, it is going gradually for about 3 hours, till you reach Shey Gompa. Getting nearer, you pass red and white chortens and mani walls. Shey Gompa is a very small village, with a couple of houses, and of course the gompa (monastery). The 11th century gompa is located beneath the Crystal Peak on a small grassy plain, at the confluence of two rivers. It is said to be constructed by a Tibetan Buddhist, who arrived here on the back of a flying snowlion. It’s a magical place, and Shey Gompa is often called the spiritual heart of Dolpa. Every year hundreds of pilgrims come to visit the gompa and to make a kora (clockwise circuit) of the Crystal Peak. People living here are direct descendents of Tibetans, which you can notice easily by their faces and their dress. They women wear dark dresses with colorful aprons made from yak wool. Men wear a long coat, from which they let one sleeve hanging down.

Day 8 Restday Shey Gompa (4350 m)

During this day, you can go to Tsakang Gompa (4575 m), a monastery from the Buddhist Kagyupa sect. This gompa appears in the movie Himalaya. It is spectacularly located high on a red rocky slope. The trail to Tsakang Gompa partly follows partly the same trail as pilgrims follow to make a kora of the Crystal Peak.

You will probably see flocks of bluesheep in these areas. Many bluesheep live here, as the abbot of Shey gompa imposed a ban on hunting them. Besides, in these regions you have the best chance of seeing the snowleopard.

Day 9 Shey Gompa (4350 m) to Namgung (4430 m) via Shey La (5000 m) 6 hrs

Another pass to cross today, the Shey La, also called Gelu La, of 5000 m. The climb to the pass goes through a narrow valley. From the pass you have a good view to the north of the arid Tibetan Plateau, which is stretching out seemingly endlessly before you. To the east you can see Mustang. After the pass, it’s a long descend to the pastures of Namgung. Scattered in the landscape, you will see some fields. Many times accompanied with a big Tibetan tent, as the fields are too far from the village to go there and go back each day. The people in Namgung are very friendly and open.

Day 10 Namgung (4400 m) to Saldang (4060 m) 3 hrs

It’s a short hiking day today. The path goes high above the Namgung Khola (River) and then descends steeply to the village of Saldang. Saldang is the largest settlement of Inner-Dolpo. It’s a spread out, traditional agricultural village, surrounded by fields. Barley, buckwheat and potatoes are among the few crops that can grow in this barren landscape. Besides, people live from what the yak gives them (cheese, meat, wool) and from trade. Saldang is close to the Tibetan border and some of the salt trade caravans pass through Saldang. The trading of salt for grain and rice is a century old tradition that still prevails in Inner-Dolpo. The people from Saldang are semi-nomadic. In the warm months they trek in the highlands with their herds of yaks and sheep. The ones who are better off let the pure nomadic people of Dolpa, the Drok-pa, do this work. Sometimes you can see a camp of the Drok-pa in these areas.

Day 11 Saldang (4060 m) to Sibu (4200 m) 5 hrs

It’s a fairly easy walk to Sibu, following the Namgung Khola southwards and passing little villages, like Namdo along the way. The villages are surrounded by terraced fields of barley. The path goes alongside many mani walls, chortens and some gompa’s, which makes you realize how important Buddhism is for the people of Inner Dolpo. Buddhism is interwoven in each and every aspect of people’s life here.

Day 12 Sibu (4200 m) to Lagmo Che (4570 m) 4 hrs

The trail starts with an easy stretch, following the river. The last village you pass is Raka. After this, you enter a large, inhabited valley. Look out for bluesheep here. Besides, you may even come across a snowleopard… After 2 hours of trekking, the path turns away from the river and climbs steeply to a meadow of about 4570 m, which is often used by yaks to graze. This is Lagmo Che, the base camp for climbing to the Jeng La.

Day 13 Lagmo Che (4570 m) to Tokyu (4209 m) via Jeng La (5110 m) 7 hrs

It’s a steep climb of about 2 hours to reach the next pass: Jeng La at 5110 m. From the pass you have a spectacular view to the Dhaulagiri (8167 m). After the pass you descend into the Tarap Valley. You arrive at the village Tokyu (4209), a spread out village, which is the first human settlement after Raka. Tokyu is said to be the highest permanent settlement in the world. The gompa is worth a visit. It has a beautiful statue of Maitreya, the Future Buddha.

Day 14 Tokyu (4209 m) to Dho Tarap ( 4080 m) 2 hrs

It’s not far to Dho Tarap. On the way, you pass the Cristal Mountain School, which is educating children from Dho and surroundings. It is a nice school, sponsored by a French NGO. If you want, you can visit the school, the teachers are very pleased to show you around. The school has a telephone, the only telephone in Dho and surroundings (019-550522). From the school, it’s about half an hour to Dho. At the entrance you pass nice a gate chorten. Also the people of Dho are direct descendents of Tibetans. Besides the typical dark dresses with colorful aprons, most Dho women wear bracelets of big shells and some have beautiful silver and turquoise headgear. Most men have long hair, with a red ribbon in their hair, in the style of Tibetan Khampas. Besides they wear the long coat, from which one sleeve is hanging down. Dho Tarap is a traditional agricultural village, surrounded by fields. Yaks are used to plough the land. As in the other villages you came across, barley, buckwheat and potatoes are among the few crops that can grow here. But nowadays, small greenhouses enable the people to grow some green vegetables as well. Besides, people live from what the yak gives them and from trade. The houses are made of stones found in the river valley and are in typical Tibetan style, with small windows and the flat roofs stocked with firewood. The people in Dho are very friendly. A Tashi Delek (good day, like the Nepali Namasté), is always welcomed with a big smile.

Close to Dho are 2 monasteries which are worth a visit. Ribo Bhumpa Gompa, right on the hill behind Dho, and Shipchaur Gompa, which is in the village Shipchok, 30 minutes walking from Dho.

Ribo Bhumpa Gompa belongs to Nyingmapa Buddhism, by the local people called Chöba Buddhism. Inside you find a beautiful big statue of Guru Rinpoche. Guru Rinpoche (Padmasambhava) is a very important Buddhist saint from the 7th century AD. He conquered the demons who were preventing Buddhism to get hold in Tibet and in this way made sure that Buddhism could be introduced in Tibet. You can easily recognize him, by his big eyes, little mustache and the staff with skulls he holds. Next to the gompa is a chorten with a chorten inside, which is said to hold the remains of a demon killed by Guru Rinpoche.

Shipchaur Gompa in Shipchok belongs to Bonpo Buddhism. Unfortunately Shipchaur Gompa is in a very bad shape, and very much in need of restoration.

Dho has a big campsite close to the river, and 2 guesthouses where you can stay as well, Angad’s Gallery and Café and one without a name, but with a sign “hotel & shop”. In Angad’s Gallery and Café you can find beautiful pictures from daily life in Dho.

Day 15 Dho Tarap (4080 m) to Sisaul (3750 m) 4 hrs

A short day today again, so that you have all the time to explore Dho in the morning.

Leaving Dho Tarap, you come along many mani walls and small chortens. The path is going down, following the Tarap Khola. Gradually you can see the landscape changing. Some bushes are appearing, it’s getting a bit greener. Just before arriving at Sisaul, you have to climb to a small pass. After the pass, the valley gets suddenly narrow. It’s a short descend to Sisaul, which has a good campsite next to a tent-hotel (this one doesn’t always sell food). You can choose to camp here, or on one of the spots a bit further down.

Day 16 Sisaul (3750 m) to Laina Odar (3370 m) 7-8 hrs

Soon after leaving Sisaul, you climb to a small pass with a nice chorten. After the pass you will see the first trees again. You mostly walk in the river valley with high rocks towering above you on both sides. The landscape is still pretty barren and this is your last change to see the bluesheep or snowleopard…

It’s a fairly easy walk of about 3 to 3½ hours from Sisaul to Nawarpani. The path gradually goes down, with some parts going up as well. At some parts the path is beautifully carved out of the rock, so that you are walking in a kind of three sided tunnel. In Nawarpani (3475 m) you find another tent-hotel, which could be a nice stop for lunch.

After Nawarpani, the landscape gets quickly greener and the path is sometimes going through pine forests, with a wonderful smell. It’s a fairly easy walk over a pretty large path. The path sometimes goes very high above the river. The path goes along the east and west side of the river, crossing the river twice by suspension bridges. In Laina Odar there is another tent-hotel, located at the riverside. This is a good place to camp.

Day 17 Laina Odar (3370 m) to Lingdo (2391 m) 5 hrs

From Laina Odar the trail goes down pretty steep to Laisicap (2772 m). Although the trail is generally in good condition, there are a couple of landslide areas where the trail gets very narrow, and where passing is a bit difficult. The landscape is very beautiful. The path goes partly through forests and you are surrounded by steep cliffs full of pine trees, mostly spruce, fir, juniper and cypress, some of which are huge. Sometimes the river is far below you. The walk to Laisicap takes about 3 hours. There is a tent-hotel, where you could stop for a dal bhat or noodle soup. At Laisicap you have reached the river again, which is called Thuli Bheri river now. You cross it over a large suspension bridge of 120 meter, high above the river. There is a police checkpost at the other side of the bridge and you have to register and show your permit.

The trail goes down pretty steep for about 45 minutes. After this, it’s a fairly easy walk, gradually going down, with some flat parts as well. The landscape is very green. The sharp rocks are dotted with pine trees, among which junipers. If you are lucky, you can see groups of large grey monkeys here. Behind you, you can see the beautiful snowcapped Kang Tokal (6294 m).

Getting closer to Lingdo, you can see some other villages in the distance, like Sarakot, which is situated high on a cliff. These are the first villages you see after Dho Tarap. You pass some mani walls and chortens. Lingdo is a small village with one guesthouse with a campingsite. Plus a checkpost, so have your permit at hand again. The people who live in this region are Tarali’s, a Magar group (who are Buddhist as well).

Day 18 Lingdo (2391 m) to Dunai (2140 m) 5 hrs

It’s an easy walk today. The first part goes through rough landscape. The path is sometimes carved out of the rocks, and at a few points very narrow. There are plans to make a motor able road all the way to Dho Tarap. Walking here, it seems that this is really a big challenge, and it surely will take a couple of years; lot’s has to be done to achieve this. But, may be a reason not to wait too long if you want to visit Dolpa…

After 2 ½ hours your reach the small village of Byasgar (2427 m) which has a small local restaurant, serving dal bhat. After Byasgar, the trail goes through a greener landscape again, which sometimes reminds to the European Alps. Rocky slopes are dotted with pine trees, mostly blue pine. At the horizon you see the snowcapped Kang Tokal (6294 m). The path goes slightly up and down, following the Thuli Bheri River, once and a while passing a couple of houses.

Dunai is the headquarters of Dolpa District. It’s a large village, of about 2.500 people, more or less half Hindu and half Buddhist. Up the hill, there is a Buddhist monastery, which is worth a visit.

Day 19 Dunai (2140 m) to Juphal (2475 m) 3½ hrs

It’s an short walk to Juphal. After 45 minutes you reach a beautiful gate chorten (stupa), which is the entrance to the VDC (Village Development Committee) Dunai. Inside the chorten you can observe some beautiful Buddhist paintings of important Buddhist figures and mandalas.

You pass the big iron suspension bridge, which you crossed on the first day to get into the Shey Phoksundo National Park. It ’s about 2½ – 3 hours to Juphal from the bridge. The first part goes over a large path. After 45 minutes, you pass through the small village Kalagaonda. About 45 minutes later, you leave the main road and walk over a small path, through fields of barley and wheat, with walnut, peach and apricot trees. It’s a pretty steep climb of about 1 – 1½ hour to reach Juphal. Just before arriving, you pass the Hindu village Dangiwada. Juphal is a large village with a small bazaar where it is nice to look around.

Day 20 Flight Juphal-Nepalgunj-Kathmandu

Early in the morning you fly to Nepalgunj. Especially the first part of the flight through the mountain valleys is spectacular. Later in the day, you fly back to Kathmandu.