Introduction to the Limi Valley in Humla, West Nepal

April 16th, 2010  | Comments: 1
Posted in: information, Maps

The Limi Valley in north Humla is visited every year by only a few intrepid people visiting it for a trekking or walking holiday. It must be one of the most beautiful and remote places left in the entire Himalayas . Its natural tranquillity, both sensuous and rugged, gathers you into its fold of ancient charms and traditions that date back over a thousand years. The Limi Khola, a tributary of the mighty Karnali River, flows and tumbles through the valley which runs north-east to south-west at an altitude of 4000m. About 1800 inhabitants live in Limi’s three main villages – Jang, Halji and Til.

Limi, unique and fascinating, still possesses and practices its rich Tibetan traditions where the old values of humanity and brotherhood dominate. However, like other communities in the Himalayas, their way of life is fast disappearing. The people in Limi are facing tough times and a severe challenge of survival as their traditional sources of income are drying up. Making wooden bowls, some of them very ornate, for ceremonial use in Tibet and China and the pashmina trade were the major sources of income. The maple wood for the bowls is now expensive and scarce as trees are disappearing, and the competitive pashmina market has slumped locally. They are also facing a reduced ability to trade with Tibet following the opening of official borders of Tibet with India and Nepal.

Map of the Limi Valley

Cut off by snow and ice from November to April, Limi is the place that time forgot. But time is catching up with them and the valley’s families and traditions are in danger of fragmenting or joining the Himalayan mountain people’s Diaspora to wherever they can find a job. New skills and ways must be found for the Limi community to generate income to stem migration to Kathmandu and the swelling cities of India.

Over the past three years, the Nepal Trust, a Nepali NGO with a partner registered charity in Scotland, has been working to develop medical services, sanitation and alternative energy. Nepal Trust has helped construct a health post, installed renewable energy in all three villages and trained a local health worker. Nepal Trust also has been promoting Limi through its contacts in UK and sends ‘Treks to Build’ groups, volunteers in Limi every year. Nepal Trust funded a survey to develop a restoration works on the 11th century Halji Gompa.

However, whilst our work aims to improve the health and lives of the Limi people, only the generation of a sustainable economy can ensure long term community development and prosperity.

The Nepal Trust believes that this can be achieved through the development of mountain tourism, encompassing the natural and cultural assets of the Limi valley.

The villages of Limi: Jang, Halji and Til

Jang

Jang lies farthest up the Limi valley at an altitude of 4000m. The village is set alongside and facing the Limi Khola on the gently sloping north side of the valley amidst terraced barley fields. Rocky crags tower above to the north whilst gently sloping wooded and rocky hillsides form the southern flanks of the valley, topped by an impressive rocky spire. The village is neatly arranged in two clusters separated by fields and the main thoroughfare along the valley. The Gompa is prominently located above the village overlooking the river. A large two-footed stupa, mani wall and chortens mark the entrance from Halji and numerous other chortens and prayer flags can be seen on the slopes to the north. The Mani Lakhang, on the main path, provides a central point outside which locals gather to discuss village news.

Halji

Halji, at 3750m, is set back from the main Limi valley sitting at the edge of a flat plain protected from the Limi Khola by a moraine bank. The enclosed land is intensely farmed, on terraced and irrigated fields. A large valley rises behind, to the north, to high pastures and glaciated peaks. Glacial streams provide a constant source of clean water and power for the grinding mills and wood turning lathes. The central focus of the village is the 11th century Gompa where many religious festivals and rituals are performed. The buildings are of dry-stone construction with inter-linking flat roofs providing easy communication between neighbours. Rocky cliffs rise to the northeast creating a dramatic backdrop to the village. As with all the villages in Limi, the religious devotion of the villagers is reflected by the large number of stupas, chortens and mani-stone walls at the entrance to Halji.

Til

Til (3950m) is nestled up on the gently sloping east side of a steep valley lying to the northwest of the main Limi valley. A large stream coming down the valley forms the entrance to the village over a small wooden bridge, after which the path passes through a two-footed stupa. Terraced fields, mainly containing barley for chang and tsampa production, surround the village. To the east the valley rises steeply with rocky cliffs and a waterfall, which provides the water supply as it passes to the southeast of the village. The houses are well constructed from dry stone with roof terraces for drying crops and conversing with neighbours. The village centre, outside the Mani Lakhang, is busy with women discussing village news and spinning wool.

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